Posted by Robert Reid

Muscat Muscat, Oman (2003) -- Two weeks before war erupted in the Middle East, I waited while the mystified Director of Tourism in Oman, shuffled through papers and barked orders at this assistant. I had called to 'talk about tourism' and he was uncertain how to deal with such a request. I showed up at 10am, as he suggested, and asked to come back at 11am. Outside the modern official building -- a taxi ride from the water, where my $20 hotel stood -- was a small cafe with a few robed men sipping tea. I joined them. Back inside, the director addressed me for the first time at 11:15am. Told him I'm a travel writer for a company that publishes a book to his country. I showed it to him. After carefully inspecting the book, he said, nodding, 'Yes, this is good information.' He thanked me and I left.